Sunday, 15 January 2017

Peking Duck and Champagne at HKK London

A whole duck, a bottle of champagne, and more, just for the two of us

Peking Duck is quite hard to come by in Britain, so when we discovered that it was available as a special Saturday afternoon "Duck and Champagne" menu at HKK, close to where we live, we got quite excited and decided to give it a go.

Peking Duck is, by the way, not the same thing as the smoked duck found in Chinese restaurants throughout Britain. Both dishes are served with pancakes, shredded cucumber and leeks, and hoisin sauce, but the duck and its preparation are completely different. The special feature of Peking Duck is the crispy glazed skin, which is separated from the meat. Traditionally this is done by blowing air between the skin and meat, before the duck is dried, and then roasted in a special oven. At HKK, they have a different technique involving dowsing the bird in boiling water mixed with vinegar, lemon juice and maltose sugar. The duck used for this dish is a breed known as Pekin Duck, a fat and tasty variety suited to this method of cooking, bred on a farm in Southern Ireland.

HKK is a fine dining Chinese restaurant close to the Liverpol Street station, with a restrained and luxurious interior. At £49 per head, including a half a bottle of Louis Roederer, the Duck and Champagne menu is pretty good value.

Perhaps a little unwisely, we were seduced by the cocktail menu and we both ordered Pomegranate Tequilas, which were very enjoyable.

The starter was a this excellent blue crab salad.

Then the chef came out to carve the duck, which was served in two courses.

First some skin and a few selected cuts, with black truffle mantou and Imperial caviar:

Then the rest of the duck, in the usual way with pancakes:

On the side, was a bowl of fried rice with duck and abalone stock.

Dessert was champagne sorbet with cotton candy.

The duck, and everything else, was delicious, and it was a very enjoyable experience. I was delighted to find that the champagne went very well with the meal. Wine and Chinese food can be a discordant combination, and I don't know enough about these things to make my own selection, so I appreciate having someone knowledgeable to make the choice on my behalf.

The nice thing about the sort of menus offered at HKK is that two people can go for a meal and still enjoy selection of dishes, whereas in most Chinese restaurants you would need a party of at least 4 people to share the food around.

Finally, I was delighted to be in a Chinese restaurant which clearly had a colour-blind staff policy. Just like its sister establishment, but unlike many other Chinese restaurants, the staff came from all over the world, and that's the way it should be.

88 Worship Street
Broadgate Quarter
London, EC2A 2BE
(Behind Liverpool Street Station)
+44 (0)20 3535 1888

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